The Lycian Way

I went on a beautiful hike today, on part of a path that traverses the mountains along the Mediterranean coast. It's probably a popular hike in summer - it climbs into the mountains behind the ruins of Olympos and passes through the ruins of the "Lost City" before descending to a small village on the beach - but today I had it to myself. The Lost City is supposed to be an old pirate fortress, but my guess is that most pirates would have trouble making the steep climb.



Instead of a hiking partner, this time I had time-delay.


The views to the snowy peaks were amazing. So wonderful to be up high again!

On that note, I would like to wish you all a very happy new year, wherever it finds you.

Much love,
Deborah

Ruins, old and new

I have spent the last week or so looking at tons of old rocks. Piled high, looming on hillsides, scattered amid trees. I have to admit, I am a bit maxed out on ruins at this point. However, you may not be, so here are a few selected photos from Pergamon, Ephesus, Iasos and Olympos (whew!).


This theater is the best part of the ruins at Pergamon.



The ruins at Ephesus are truly impressive, and include, among other important buildings, a library and a public toilet.



The old fortress-city of Iasos was completely empty when I visited. It's not one of the huge restored sites, but the setting of this house with mosaic floors on a hill above a bay is beautiful.

Iasos is also the setting for a typical scene in Turkey, especially along the coast: development that mars the landscape but is never even completed. In this otherwise peaceful and quiet place, huge construction projects come and then suddenly go. I don't know how long this shell of a hotel has been here, but the weeds have grown thick over the abandoned materials.


Olympos: This is probably the coolest spot for a castle.

See? Now you're tired of ruins, too.

Turkish music and dance

In Bursa, I was treated to a rare evening of entertainment. First, two Chinese kids and I went to tea house around the corner from our hotel. The lute-like instrument is a saz, with a very beautiful sound, and the drumming was excellent.

These musicians gather there everyday after work to play, sing, drink tea, and just hang out. Everyone knows each other, and instruments hang on the wall for anyone who wants to join in.


This guy was an awesome dancer.

After inhaling 10 packs worth of cigarette smoke in the tea house, we headed to the basketball stadium to catch the whirling dervishes.


This was the last night of the Rumi festival in Konya, which celebrated the 800th birthday of the founder of the Sufi sect. In Bursa, there was a parallel performance of sema: ritual chanting, music and whirling.

These men spun like this for over an hour, and not one fell down or threw up. It's incredible to watch, and you can easily imagine that after an hour of this, they are closer to God.

I have posted videos of both of these on my picasa site: http://picasaweb.google.com/dnemens/BursaIznikBandirma

Enjoy!

Love, Deborah

Escape from the Big City

Iznik is a small town on the shores of a lake, guarded by ancient, crumbling walls and ringed by hills. Surrounded by olive groves and herds of sheep, the busy streets of Istanbul feel much farther than two hours away. I found some temporary companions (French and Belgian), and went on my first hike in what feels like forever. It was a cold, grey day, but fun to get into the hills nevertheless. Iznik has been a well-known center of tile production for hundreds of years, but all the shops were closed for Kurban Bayram. This is a four-day holiday on par with Christmas in importance, where each family ritually sacrifices a ram and invites guests to participate in the subsequent feasting. Meat and sheepskins are also donated to charity. For almost a week, I have been surrounded by holiday cheer, frenzied shopping, and sheep massacring. Interesting combination.

Here the sad things wait for the fun to begin. These impromptu pens were everywhere, often near mosques. I have spared you all (and myself) after photos.

With love,
Deborah



For more photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/dnemens/BursaIznikBandirma

Commerce and religion meet in Istanbul

Istanbul's Spice Bazaar is a chaotic, bustling marketplace. Here, you can buy everything from sweets to spice racks, fresh fish and vacuum cleaner hoses. It is packed with shoppers: the crowds are so thick they would put Times Square to shame, and it can take an hour just to push three blocks through to the main street from a twisting side alley. Occasionally, a car or truck, horn blaring, fights its way down one of these alleys, nearly scraping the sides of old brick buildings. Looming above all this madness is Rüstem Pasa mosque. Almost 500 years old, it is a peaceful oasis surrounded by the warring shoppers and hawkers of the bazaar. After navigating the crowds and wandering through a maze of cobblestone alleyways, the well-hidden entrance leads up a flight of dark stairs to an incredibly quiet courtyard. Inside, a few men are praying, and the lavish tiles shine in the light of hanging lamps. The silence is deep, and the stillness and beauty are only enhanced by the melee outside its walls.

I am leaving Istanbul for now, so expect photos of quieter, less crowded places soon (I hope). What I've taken so far is here: http://picasaweb.google.com/dnemens/Istanbul
Your comments, criticisms, and praise are always welcome.

Love to all,
Deborah

First impressions of Istanbul

Hello All,

Istanbul is fantastic, totally beautiful, loud, sometimes smelly, and very diverse. On the street, there are hip punk rockers, women in headscarves, super fasionable twentysomethings, old men smoking water pipes, and even a few women fully covered. And a ton of cats. Oh, and some lovely old buıldıngs as well. I am posting a small selection of photos, but for those of you who want more, please feel free to visit my picasa album. Be advised that they are mostly unedited.

Right now I am overwhelmed, trying to learn Turkish and not getting very far. A lot is happening, but most of the time I have no idea what is going on. Maybe after a few months, I will have some sort of clue.

More later!

Love,

Deborah